Wed
6
Oct
2010

Cycling to Work? Get dressed for action

Making the decision to ditch the car or bus and cycle to work is easy when the sun is shining, you bless the day you bought your bike.
But every bicycle commuter needs to prepare for cold, rain, heat and snow. Riding a bike in rainy conditions can actually be fun, as most motorists tend to be more cautious, you’ll keep cooler and you can feel the smile creep across your face as you see the morning commuter crowd queue for the bus wet and bedraggled as you pass by.
The worst part of cycling to work in the rain is that your bike gets mucked up and so do you!; but that can be quickly remedied by a bucket of soap and a garden hose, well thats for the bike but what about you.
Choosing the right clothing to cycle to work and “Layering” – What’s it all about?
Getting this part of your cycling experience will mean you have no need to put your bike away during the winter months.
Cycling can be just as pleasurable in the colder and wet weather, providing you invest in the right Cycling gear.
Advances in clothing mean that your optimum cycling temperature can be maintained without feeling uncomfortable; there is no need to wear bulky clothing which will only restricts your movement.

Cycling to work and getting there in a tidy state is all about layering, using technical fabrics manufactured with specific properties for all weather cycling. Basically, if you follow these simple guidelines, you shouldn’t get caught out by the elements.
So what should I look out for?
1. Base Layers
Base layers perform two key tasks; they transport moisture away from the body to prevent a chill and they also trap air in order to keep you warm. If you’re riding at a level where you sweat a lot, you should look for a base layer with good wicking characteristics ie ability to pull moisture away from the body using a capillary action. If your riding tends to be more sedate, then warmth is the key characteristic to look out for.
2. Mid Layers
Traditionally a mid layer has been worn on top of the base layer. However the technical properties of fabrics has advanced so much now that mid layers are only really necessary in extremely cold conditions. You may find that a base layer under an outer layer is sufficient in most conditions. The role of this layer is insulation, generated by trapping your body’s own heat. However the fabric chosen should also be breathable to allow any moisture to escape from your base layer. Fleece is good as a mid layer as a fleece comes in different thicknesses, providing varying levels of insulation. Some fleece material may also have wicking, windproof and water resistance built in too. A couple of thinner fleeces offers more flexibility than one thick fleece, as you can always add or remove layers as the temperature dictates.

3. Outerwear
The job of this layer is to defend the other two from the elements, allowing them to do their job. They are normally windproof and waterproof but also breathable allowing water vapour to pass through from the base and mid layers.
Windproof jackets are generally more breathable but will only offer limited protection from the rain. In really wet conditions you need to look for a jacket with waterproofing.
For optimum protection against the elements, don’t forget about your head, hands and feet too.

Headgear –A beany worn under you hat on cold days

Winter Gloves – your hands may get warm in an insulated pair but it’s better than being cold

Footwear – you can either invest in some winter shoes or alternatively, wear some overshoes for insulation and waterproofing

Safe Riding in the Dark
Cycling in the dark.can’t be avoided if you’re Cycling to and from work, if you want to maintain fitness over the winter months. Here’s a quick guide on what you’ll need to keep you safe.

Bike Lights- are a legal requirement for riding in the dark. Investing in both front and rear lights will ensure that your are visible to other road users

Clothing – for night riding, should be hi-viz and reflective. Look out for jackets and tops with a large amount of reflective material, especially on the back of the garment. This will ensure any vehicle approaching from behind can see you.
Reflective, arm/ankle bands, hangtags and stickers provide extra visibility. Ankle bands are great for attracting headlights. As your legs pedal away the bands are picked up by headlights and added greatly to you visibility to other road users. A hi-viz backpack cover will also help your visibility from behind.
There isn’t any formula to dressing for bicycling but make sure you can still ride safely without restricting your movements, you can be seen, stay dry and stay warm.
Decide for yourself what works best, given your budget, climate, and fashion sensibilities.

Another essential item for bicycling in the rain is a set of mudguards/fenders which should be standard equipment on every bike, if there not don’t hesitate to install them, this will keep the wet weather slop off both you and your bike.
Extra caution is necessary while riding in the rain. Metal objects in the street (manhole covers, construction plates, tram rails and pot holes are every where, as are painted road surfaces. Your stopping capacity is also diminished in the rain. But if you’re properly outfitted, riding in the rain isn’t a terrible ordeal. You will certainly avoid a lot of those multi-car pileups that delay so many motorists during rainstorms.
By wearing the right protective clothing and cycling at a moderate pace (below perspiration stage),you will will be able to cycle to work on rainy days drier than if I’d stood waiting for a bus.

Wed
6
Oct
2010

Cycle with pride “Define your Space”

Before you hit the road I suggested that you stop thinking like a motorist. Well, that’s mostly true. However, when you’re out bicycling on the street, the safest way to travel is as if you’re operating a vehicle. If you considers a cyclist to have the same rights and responsibilities as other road users the you journey will be less frustrating
Many beginning cyclists think that riding on the pavement is safer than riding in the street. They couldn’t be more wrong. Cycling on the pavement means you have to dodge pedestrians, pets, scaffolding, street furniture, parking meters and signs, vehicles exiting driveways and garages, landscaping, trees and leafy debris, motorists turning off the street, pedestrians leaving buildings without expecting a high velocity traveller sharing their space.
Ride in the street. It’s safer and in most city’s you now have a dedicated cycle lane thanks to the cycle to work scheme. Cycling on the pavements is really taboo.
Many prospective cyclists are justifiably concerned about safety. However, the perception of danger is generally far greater than the reality. In my experience, probably 98 percent of the motorists I encounter are truly not a problem. There are some “road raging” jerk drivers out there, but for the most part, they’re rare (fortunately.) You can further minimize the risk from motorists by doing a few obvious things:
Know your bicycle. The best way to improve your bicycling safety is simply to bicycle more. Take your bike to a quiet street or park and practice riding. Learn how your bike handles: how it stops, accelerates, turns, and shifts. Gaining confidence in your bicycle handling skills will greatly improve your safety.
Keep it working. Many bicycle crashes result from equipment malfunction. Keep your bike well-maintained and you will avoid many problems.
Pre-ride inspection. Before you cycle to work, give your bike the “Quick ABC check” Air, Brakes, Crank set, Quick Releases. Make sure your tires are inflated, brakes are good, chain is on the and cogs, and that quick releases are closed.
Be seen. Ride predictably, with traffic, where drivers can see you. Stay in the traffic lane, maintain a straight line. Never ride against traffic; wrong way cycling is extremely dangerous.
Be heard. Communicate with motorists, pedestrians, and other cyclists with hand signals, bell, and horn. Make eye contact with motorists; to be sure they see you. Smile when motorists yield the right of way.
Be assertive. Timid riding invites abuse. You have a right to the road. Claim it. Define your space. Don’t be bullied. You have the same right to the road as any other user. Many cyclists ride as close as possible to the parked cars on their left, frightened that an overtaking vehicle won’t see them or won’t wait until its safe to pass. This is an accident waiting to happen!The most frequent accident for urban cyclist’s is “dooring,” a collision with an open car door!!!. Claim your space.
Be alert. Watch for hazards: potholes, debris, open car doors. Anticipate. Be familiar with your route.
Speed kills. Going fast on a bike is thrilling. But don’t ride at a speed beyond your capabilities. Ride in control at all times.
Be smart. Obey traffic laws. Or the law of traffic. Know your limits.
Again, be assertive. Take the lane! Traffic law doesn’t require a cyclist to pull over every time a car approaches from the rear. You only have to be as far to the left as you consider necessary to safely operate your bike. If there’s road debris, broken pavement, another cyclist or anything extreme at curb side that makes you uncomfortable, move to the right. You have the right to the entire lane! Take it. You’re far safer having the cars behind you than crowding you while they pass. Give yourself a cushion. Define your space. Don’t be timid. Assert your rights.
Cycling is safe! Ride with confidence and claim you space

Wed
6
Oct
2010

Choosing Your Route

One of the main reasons a lot of people don’t cycle to work is because they think like motorists. As drivers, they know that the quickest way to get from Point A to Point B is by Route C. Unfortunately, Route C features abundant high-velocity traffic, plenty of potholes and rough pavement, a few steep hills and several dangerous roundabouts.

Not very attractive even for a seasoned cyclist, let alone a beginner.
However, there just may be a Route D that runs parallel to Route C. Route D features slower and congested traffic, it may be flatter with good pavement, more trees, interesting scenery and many smiling pedestrians.

When considering your route, don’t think like a motorist. Think like a cyclist. Pick the most pleasant route. Look on Google Earth, its fun and you will be surprised at the route you can take, and there are several bicycling applications for smart phones too. You may also consult Ask your local council if they have a cycle route map; often these are provided at no charge. Inquire at the local bike shops, or your local bike club. Look for streets with attractive scenery. Find the friendliest espresso stop.

Part of the charm of cycling to work is that the pace and ease of parking, most places provide you with secure parking without cost.

Wed
6
Oct
2010

Size Matters

Which Size Bike Do I Require?
Adult bikes are generally measured by frame size. This is normally the measurement between the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube.
Riders Height Mainly Off Road Use (26inch Wheels)
Mainly On Road Use (26inch / 700c Wheels)
Road Racing Bikes 700c

In Feet & Inches Frame Size Required
up to 5 feet 3 up to 14 inches up to 15 inches / 42cm up to 50cm
5 feet 3 to 5 feet 6 14 to 16 inches 15 to 17 inches / 40 to 46cm 50 to 53cm
5 feet 6 to 5 feet 9 16 to 18 inches 17 to 19 inches / 44 to 50cm 53 to 56cm
5 feet 9 to 6 feet 0 18 to 20 inches 19 to 21 inches / 48 to 54cm 56 to 59cm
above 6 foot above 20 inches 21 inches / 52 cm 58cm +

Wed
6
Oct
2010

Choosing the Right Bike

Sounds obvious but the most important thing is to get a bike you feel comfortable with
Find a reputable bike shop on line or in the high street, consult with the sales staff, think about how you might use the bike, how far you’ll be going, what you might need to carry, what conditions you’ll be riding in, and make your choice.
I’d recommend a Hybrid bike for most everyday urban riding needs. Its not too expensive and most reputable bike shops carry a large range that come equipped with fenders, bells, lights, Kickstands, racks, and, very important, chain guards.
If you think most of your riding will be done on asphalt streets, and a hybrid bike is out of your budget then it’s just as good to consider a touring, or a road bike. They’re generally made with larger 26 inch Weels, with street “slicks” or other tires made for riding on pavement, and offer a longer wheelbase for a more comfortable ride.
Don’t be dazzled by the bling! Mountain bike are hot if you are a dedicated to the sport, however, most people never get near a trail with their mountain bike. So restrain yourself, the whole idea is to only buy what you need. There will be plenty of opportunity to up grade later when you you have found your feet
In short, my point is: get the bike that suits you. There’s no need to have the latest, the most exciting, the most colourful, the most expensive bike, just get the one that fits!

Wed
6
Oct
2010

Get On Your Bike And Ride!

Had enough of high fuel prices, Sick of traffic delays, Blind with road rage, late to work
Now is the time to consider cycling to work.
It’s an effective, healthy, inexpensive, and a fun alternative that is attracting more and more commuters all over the world.
Today, there’s a lot of information on bicycle commuting and cycling to work available on the web, the more you know, the more enjoyable bike commuting becomes.
It isn’t easy to make the shift to bicycle commuting, most people I know start for the right reasons but end up creating a money pit!
This web site relates the hard lessons learned by one cyclist over many years of riding to work everyday and gives you an insight of what Bike and Cycling accessories you really need.